Coolant Check

Examples of New Idea

Blown Headgasket?

The day I got my Fuse Relay Board back in and everything, and fired up the car, I received a storm of white smoke coming from my exhaust. Not only that, but some liquid from the exhaust as well. I checked the Coolant Reservoir, which was empty. I added coolant, and there has not been any white smoke since.

The car was sitting outside for a good while. Lots of rainy days, humid and moist days etc. so I am thinking the fluid coming from the exhaust could just be some condensation build up? Liquid does not spit from it every time I start the car up, or drive it. In fact, I got nothing today. This can also happen when firing the car, and shutting it down before it has time to heat up, and doing this multiple times correct? I have done this quite a bit, especially with working on the electric testing things.

Now, after having done all this electric work, I was still receiving power loss, especially when idle. I have not yet diagnosed whether or not the power loss is an electrical problem or not (too see if the voltage continues to drop after time) because of this next issue,

I am getting a burning smell. Didn't take long to hint the smell coming directly from the Intake Manifold Runners, no burning smell coming from the Manifold itself. This would heat up pretty fast, shortly after a few revvs of the engine. I did not notice any oil or residue on any of the runners or manifold.

Something is also squealing below the engine, after idling for a few minutes. I cannot tell what it is. It does not sound like a loose timing belt, but since I was getting a lot of heating I was told that it could be Water Pump failure. The Upper Radiator Hose does not seem to be getting hot after awhile (it is suppose to be, correct? Usually ater normal temperature of 180 degrees Fahrenheit?)

I do not notice any oil in the coolant.

I do not have any water or white fluid mixed with the oil, from what I can tell. I smelled under the oil fill cap and I could hint a gas smell. I am not sure if this is normal or normal for the type of oil that is in there. I have never really stuck oil up to my nose before. I also got a bit of thick brown mudlike crud around the little seal inside the top of the oil fill cap, aswell as some in the leading hose.

Was going to go get a Combustion Leak Tester today, but I could not find anyone that carried them.

Battery Terminals

Need Fuel Lines

It is time to change out my 3o+ year old Fuel Lines. Better safe than sorry.

I contacted a few people and received a  contact source- someone who has a complete Fuel Line Kit. I was told it's not cheap, but neither will be my car if it explodes...

Lift Bars + More

Since I got the Lift Bars in a couple months ago, I think it is time to do some under body work. I need to get a hold of some Jacks that will support everything enough so that I am going to be as safe as I can be in these conditions. I have a set of 2 Tons and a set of 3 Tons. Tomorrow I will see if I can get 2 sets of 6 Tons stands and a 6 Ton Jack.

The vehicle may only be under 2 Tons itself, but it is already risky as it is working directly under a car, relying on some little posts to keep the car up-and since this will be quite a few feet off the ground, with 4 jack stand keeping it up, it's best to go the more expensive route.

Once I get the car up, I will drain the current oil, add some new better Mobil 1 15W 50, and replace the Oil Filter once it arrives. I will need to make sure I acquire the necessary tools before the Filter arrives.

Afterwards, I will make an appointment to get the Alternator tested.

I also got the Headlights and Window Motors working today. Replaced the fuses. I had accidentally put an 8 amp fuse into a 25 amp fuse slot. The 25 amp fuse is what was needed to get the Window Motor functioning again.

All Electrics Working

I cleaned up the Fuse Relay Board, and changed out all the Fuses with new ones. I replaced the Board after cleaning up the other ground wires to the best of my ability, and added some good coats of Electric Cleaner to everything.

I am happy to say that EVERY single electric and light now work! I was very excited and happy about that.

My power results have increased as well. I added some battery terminal protectants, some corrosive preventative, and cleaned the battery terminals, and a cut off switch as well. The car starts up every single time now! I am still getting power drop though. I haven't had time to go through any of the other ground points on the vehicle. Just only got around to the Fuse Relay Board stuff.

When I first started the car up today, I got A LOT of white smoke from the exhaust.

Fuse Relay Board

Drove Today

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Although the Alternator may be bad, I just realized today that something with the Fuse Relay Board is upsetting the car. I let the car run until it died down, and then shut the car off. I attempt to fire it up again, and it will not start, even after several attempts. So I move over to the Relay Board and wiggle it around a bit, give it a little thump, and then try and fire it up again, and it goes.

I was actually able to do this today, and I drove the car around the neighborhood and power held. A few minutes later I parked it back in my driveway and power began to deplete. The battery is holding good.

I did do the Relay Board Reconditioning procedure. Relay Board could be dirty again by now.

I took it out again, and I did not have any power loss. Tach sat at about 14. I drove it good down the street and everything. I am going to take it back out though and drive it long enough to see if it begins losing power. Is it possible that the power could be lost by sitting if a Relay or one of the wires is not functioning correctly?

In any case, I'm going to take the panel out again and clean it up, as well as everything else around it and see if I get any improvement.


Okay, I took the car out again and took a risk, going for about a 10 minute drive to the outskirts of town. No problems, seemed to have full power, and drove like the beast it is. I noticed what seemed to be a burning smell after about 5 minutes of driving, coming from the Engine Bay, but the bay is dirty, and I haven't driven it this fast in about a year.

So I don't know what's going on really. It loses power when it sits, but holds when driven. Either way, I'll replace the Alternator, and work with the Fuse Relay Board, and it should definitely show better results.

Fuse Relay Board?

I re-installed the battery after charging it to about 14.43. I tried turning the car over, and it did, just like before, same amount on the Tachometer, reading 10.

I attempted to fire-up, but no luck. I took a look at the Fuse Relay Board which was lying down, but connected. I lifted it up and messed with it a bit, then tried to fire-up the car again. It roared to life!!!

Looks like I should fully install the Fuse Relay Board before any further attempts. I will need to try and get out to install the new Alternator this weekend.

Electrical Gremlins

I started the 928 up today, and drove it up to the front of the house, where I inspected under the hood in nice direct sunlight. After re-attaching the ground strap, she didn't seem to have enough power to fire up. Electrics worked decent, and the tachometer set at about 10, which is very poor.

I am currently charging the battery out of the car, and the Voltmeter is reading 13.30+. The battery is obviously maintaining, but something is preventing the fire up process. I will re-install the battery in about an hour and see results.

Alternator Fail

I put in the new battery, as well as a new ground strap. After taking out the previous ground strap, you could tell it was just a POS. Corrosion had broken it in several places.

Anyways, with the new battery in, and new ground strap, I used the voltmeter to read about 12.50. I started the car up and she came to life right away. I measured again while running to get around 14.40. It was running good at idle, but after I gave it some gas, it began to lose power.

After a few revs, the tachometer dropped and dropped, until it was at at about 10, and then the warning light came on, and you could notice there was hardly any power at all.

I used the jumper cable on the negative ground, while holding the other cable clamped to the well. The battery did not seem to be draining either. It held at about 12.50+.

I let it sit for awhile and gave it another fire up. This time it held at about 12 on the tachometer, and it would stay put when I revved. It sounded very firm and strong. I turned the car off and fired up again, and it read around 14.45.
I let it idle for about a minute, and the tach dropped from 14 to 12. Voltage measured around 13.71. It can't make up it's mind whether it wants to hold or not.


Good thing I have a spare Alternator sitting here, because it needs to go in the 928...

Future Plans

This will be a large, growing list of everything I want to get for the 928.

- Interior Paint- roofing etc.

- Interior Screw Set

- New Rear Hatch Seal

- All Electrics working

- New bulbs & covers

- Rear Quarter Panels (repair or get new)

- New Headlights & Headlight Covers

- Remote Start System

- Alarm System

- Custom Center Console with new radio and GPS, and Phone slot

- Rearview Camera

- Blindspot Rearview Mirror

- New Tires (Dunlop?)

- Front Spoiler

More to come...

Battery or Ground Strap Problem?

-Tried to start, and got a little bit of power. Tried a second time, and no power at all.

- Charged Battery for a little while. Read 11.88

-Put the battery back into the car and installed it, then attached a jumper pack, and attempted to start the car

- Car started up

- Tachometer significantly dropped from 14 to 12

- Revved the engine, but it did not hold well. Sounded as if the car was about to die, after taking foot off the accelerator

- Battery significantly dropped minutes later to 10, on the tachometer.

- Very poor performance and sound. Timing belt not going normal speed, but still managing

- Turned car off

- Started it again, and the electrics worked. Lights popped up good

- Tachometer set at 10

- Attempted another fire up, but not enough power to go. Voltmeter read 11.76

- Alternator belt and Timing belts intact

- Battery seemed to very slowly drop while sitting. 11.76-11.72-11.68 within 10 minutes time.


Ground strap may not be working as it should. I am going to replace it and see if this solves the issue.
I also went ahead and picked up an extra battery yesterday, for a whopping $150 - $12 if I bring the other battery back.

Today is around 25 degrees with some winds. May not be great to go out and work on the car since it is outside. Tomorrow is reading 36 degrees, so I might have some time then. Otherwise, I will have to wait about another week to see what the weather is like.

Car Running

The Ignition Module was installed successfully and I picked the 928 up from the shop a few days ago. About a minute later, a wire cap fell into the throttle making the engine rev. The car died after I braked at the stoplight. My mechanic came over and jumped me quick, and I was able to get the car back home.