The day I got my Fuse Relay Board back in and everything, and fired up the car, I received a storm of white smoke coming from my exhaust. Not only that, but some liquid from the exhaust as well. I checked the Coolant Reservoir, which was empty. I added coolant, and there has not been any white smoke since.
The car was sitting outside for a good while. Lots of rainy days, humid and moist days etc. so I am thinking the fluid coming from the exhaust could just be some condensation build up? Liquid does not spit from it every time I start the car up, or drive it. In fact, I got nothing today. This can also happen when firing the car, and shutting it down before it has time to heat up, and doing this multiple times correct? I have done this quite a bit, especially with working on the electric testing things.
Now, after having done all this electric work, I was still receiving power loss, especially when idle. I have not yet diagnosed whether or not the power loss is an electrical problem or not (too see if the voltage continues to drop after time) because of this next issue,
I am getting a burning smell. Didn't take long to hint the smell coming directly from the Intake Manifold Runners, no burning smell coming from the Manifold itself. This would heat up pretty fast, shortly after a few revvs of the engine. I did not notice any oil or residue on any of the runners or manifold.
Something is also squealing below the engine, after idling for a few minutes. I cannot tell what it is. It does not sound like a loose timing belt, but since I was getting a lot of heating I was told that it could be Water Pump failure. The Upper Radiator Hose does not seem to be getting hot after awhile (it is suppose to be, correct? Usually ater normal temperature of 180 degrees Fahrenheit?)
I do not notice any oil in the coolant.
I do not have any water or white fluid mixed with the oil, from what I can tell. I smelled under the oil fill cap and I could hint a gas smell. I am not sure if this is normal or normal for the type of oil that is in there. I have never really stuck oil up to my nose before. I also got a bit of thick brown mudlike crud around the little seal inside the top of the oil fill cap, aswell as some in the leading hose.
Was going to go get a Combustion Leak Tester today, but I could not find anyone that carried them.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Thursday, June 30, 2011
Need Fuel Lines
It is time to change out my 3o+ year old Fuel Lines. Better safe than sorry.
I contacted a few people and received a contact source- someone who has a complete Fuel Line Kit. I was told it's not cheap, but neither will be my car if it explodes...
I contacted a few people and received a contact source- someone who has a complete Fuel Line Kit. I was told it's not cheap, but neither will be my car if it explodes...
Lift Bars + More
Since I got the Lift Bars in a couple months ago, I think it is time to do some under body work. I need to get a hold of some Jacks that will support everything enough so that I am going to be as safe as I can be in these conditions. I have a set of 2 Tons and a set of 3 Tons. Tomorrow I will see if I can get 2 sets of 6 Tons stands and a 6 Ton Jack.
The vehicle may only be under 2 Tons itself, but it is already risky as it is working directly under a car, relying on some little posts to keep the car up-and since this will be quite a few feet off the ground, with 4 jack stand keeping it up, it's best to go the more expensive route.
Once I get the car up, I will drain the current oil, add some new better Mobil 1 15W 50, and replace the Oil Filter once it arrives. I will need to make sure I acquire the necessary tools before the Filter arrives.
Afterwards, I will make an appointment to get the Alternator tested.
I also got the Headlights and Window Motors working today. Replaced the fuses. I had accidentally put an 8 amp fuse into a 25 amp fuse slot. The 25 amp fuse is what was needed to get the Window Motor functioning again.
The vehicle may only be under 2 Tons itself, but it is already risky as it is working directly under a car, relying on some little posts to keep the car up-and since this will be quite a few feet off the ground, with 4 jack stand keeping it up, it's best to go the more expensive route.
Once I get the car up, I will drain the current oil, add some new better Mobil 1 15W 50, and replace the Oil Filter once it arrives. I will need to make sure I acquire the necessary tools before the Filter arrives.
Afterwards, I will make an appointment to get the Alternator tested.
I also got the Headlights and Window Motors working today. Replaced the fuses. I had accidentally put an 8 amp fuse into a 25 amp fuse slot. The 25 amp fuse is what was needed to get the Window Motor functioning again.
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
All Electrics Working
I cleaned up the Fuse Relay Board, and changed out all the Fuses with new ones. I replaced the Board after cleaning up the other ground wires to the best of my ability, and added some good coats of Electric Cleaner to everything.
I am happy to say that EVERY single electric and light now work! I was very excited and happy about that.
My power results have increased as well. I added some battery terminal protectants, some corrosive preventative, and cleaned the battery terminals, and a cut off switch as well. The car starts up every single time now! I am still getting power drop though. I haven't had time to go through any of the other ground points on the vehicle. Just only got around to the Fuse Relay Board stuff.
When I first started the car up today, I got A LOT of white smoke from the exhaust.
I am happy to say that EVERY single electric and light now work! I was very excited and happy about that.
My power results have increased as well. I added some battery terminal protectants, some corrosive preventative, and cleaned the battery terminals, and a cut off switch as well. The car starts up every single time now! I am still getting power drop though. I haven't had time to go through any of the other ground points on the vehicle. Just only got around to the Fuse Relay Board stuff.
When I first started the car up today, I got A LOT of white smoke from the exhaust.
Friday, April 8, 2011
Wednesday, April 6, 2011
Drove Today
Although the Alternator may be bad, I just realized today that something with the Fuse Relay Board is upsetting the car. I let the car run until it died down, and then shut the car off. I attempt to fire it up again, and it will not start, even after several attempts. So I move over to the Relay Board and wiggle it around a bit, give it a little thump, and then try and fire it up again, and it goes.
I was actually able to do this today, and I drove the car around the neighborhood and power held. A few minutes later I parked it back in my driveway and power began to deplete. The battery is holding good.
I did do the Relay Board Reconditioning procedure. Relay Board could be dirty again by now.
I took it out again, and I did not have any power loss. Tach sat at about 14. I drove it good down the street and everything. I am going to take it back out though and drive it long enough to see if it begins losing power. Is it possible that the power could be lost by sitting if a Relay or one of the wires is not functioning correctly?
In any case, I'm going to take the panel out again and clean it up, as well as everything else around it and see if I get any improvement.
Okay, I took the car out again and took a risk, going for about a 10 minute drive to the outskirts of town. No problems, seemed to have full power, and drove like the beast it is. I noticed what seemed to be a burning smell after about 5 minutes of driving, coming from the Engine Bay, but the bay is dirty, and I haven't driven it this fast in about a year.
So I don't know what's going on really. It loses power when it sits, but holds when driven. Either way, I'll replace the Alternator, and work with the Fuse Relay Board, and it should definitely show better results.
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